Congratulations on the newest addition to your family! Fortunately, caring for a baby Leachianus Gecko is easier than many other pets. There is no need for special lighting and heat sources. You don’t have to listen to crickets chirping all night long. Also, baby leachies need only small enclosures. If an eclosure is too large, the baby may have difficulty finding its food.
This guide is neither complete nor comprehensive. It is also based on our own experiences and research in raising reptiles. This advice should not be considered a substitute for professional veterinary care. As with all pets, you can do everything “right” and your animal might still get sick or even die. Always seek the opinion of a veterinarian should your leachie show signs of illness.
Enclosures
A 6-quart plastic/sterlite shoebox container is plenty for most babies under 25 grams in weight. If you want the baby to have more space to climb, then a taller shoebox (like the one here) is also recommended. Regardless of size, be sure to poke holes or install a screen for ventilation. (A drill, heated ice pick, punch tool, or soldering iron can be used for this.)
While the leachie is in a plastic tub, the best substrate is a paper towel. Some people prefer to use cypress mulch. We do not recommend mulch as it can hide messes and molds. Keeping the humidity correct can be more difficult as well which causes mold. Some molds can be toxic, and they can kill your qnimal. We highly recommend paper towels. I tried to avoid using paper towels, but it really is the best option.
Regardless of size, all enclosures need to include a place to hide, a climbing surface, plants (fake or real) for enrichment, and cork bark. The cork bark is essential for shedding. Without adequate moisture and a surface for rubbing (this is the cork), the gecko will have difficulty removing their molts which can lead to health issues and even lost appendages. We also recommend a small water dish to go along with their food dish. Most geckos will only get their water from drops on plants and the walls of their enclosures, but some will actually lap it up from their bowls. It also helps maintain humidity. We’ll talk about humidity in a bit.
As the leachie ages and gains weight (~35 grams) it can be moved to a more typical, arboreal tank setup. At this stage, a 12” (l) x 12” (w) x 18” (h) is fine. You can also continue to use larger/taller sterlite tubs. We prefer the tanks so we can incorporate a bioactive substrate, (Clint’s Reptiles: DIY BIOACTIVE ENCLOSURE | Step By Step With Links ) decomposers (isopods, beneficial fungus, and springtails), and live, vivarium-safe, plants. (Bioactive substrates can help prevent poopy smells and reduce the amount of elbow grease spent cleaning.) At this point, your leachie will also really benefit from a hollow cork round. In the wild, these animals live in hollow logs. Cork is great because it is water resistant and easy to clean.
As your leachie continues to grow, it will eventually outgrow its setup. For an adult leachie (or bonded pair of leachies), an 18” x 18” x 24” is adequate. However, a larger enclosure is recommended if you can afford the price and space. This will be your pet’s permanent home, so you want to make it cozy. Make sure you have appropriate-sized cork rounds, diverse foliage, and various climbing surfaces. You can find great online resources for decorating a beautiful and comfortable enclosure that will keep your beloved pet happy and healthy.
Temperature and Humidity
For New Caledonean geckos, such as leachies, ideal daytime temperatures range from 72–78°F (22–26°C), with a slight nighttime drop to 68–72°F (20–22°C). They are like us in they are most comfortable at room temperature.They do not tolerate prolonged heat above 82°F (28°C), which can cause stress or even be fatal.
Humidity should be maintained between 60–80%, with daily misting to create natural fluctuations—higher after misting and gradually dropping before the next cycle. Humidity is measured using a hygromoeter. (There are many options for hygrometer/thermometers on the internet and in pet stores, but the analog ones sold at pet shops are not very accurate.) Good ventilation is essential to prevent harmful molds and stagnant, overly damp air, which can lead to skin and respiratory issues. A combination of humidity, ventilation, and temperature stability supports healthy shedding, hydration, and overall well-being.It is essential to have some kind of misting system regardless of the size of your leachie’s enclosure. A small spray water filled with dechlorinated water is fine for maintaining proper humidity when your leachie is a baby. Spraying one wall of a small enclosure once a day should be adequate if you live in a humid environment. Replace paper towels should they become wet. Bioactive vivariums require more moisture to maintain the substrate, plants, and cleaning crew. You can continue to spray or incorporate an automatic misting system.
Feeding
Leachianus geckos are omnivorous and require a balanced diet of fruits and proteins. Commercial powdered crested gecko diets (CGDs) provide all the nutrients they need. A high-quality CGD should make up the bulk of their diet, as it provides the necessary vitamins, minerals, and balanced nutrition. Fortunately, you have many options for powdered gecko diets. Repashy, Pangea, Vitameal, and Lugarti are among the most popular choices.
Food should be offered 3–4 times per week for juveniles and 2–3 times per week for adults. For babies, bottle caps, contact lens cases or reusable, silicon feeding cups are adequate for feeding. (I love to hand feed babies because they become more used to being handled, and because it makes me happy.) Feeding cup size should increase as your leachie increases in size.
Live insects such as dubia roaches and crickets can be fed on occasion to encourage natural hunting behavior and provide enrichment. We recommend insects be gut-loaded, and lightly dusted with calcium and vitamin D3. Leachies also enjoy the occasional fruit treat, but sugary foods should be limited. Fresh, clean water should always be available.
Handling
How often should you handle your leachie? The unsatisfying answer is “not too little but not too much”. Leachies are not like bearded dragons and dogs that crave your attention. They are more like cats who tolerate your existence most of the time, enjoy it some of the time, and want nothing to do with it other times.
Too much handling can cause stress. Too little handling can lead to aggression or cause you to miss clues to health issues. We recommend limiting handling of babies to a few minutes a day and again at feeding. (Other sources may advise that this is too much. None of us really know what’s going on in their little brains.) If you purchased your leachie baby from Ereptile Dysfunction, it will have experienced regular handling.
Remember, leachies sleep during the day. They also do not have visible eyelids, so they look awake when they are actually sleeping. If you reach in and grab a gecko while it’s sleeping, it’s not going to like it. It might even bite. Gently waking the animal before picking it up can reduce handling-induced stress. At night, your baby will likely be more active and mobile. It’s going to jump, so be on the alert.
Leachies are arboreal (live in trees), so they are meant to grab onto logs and branches. They love trees, so be your gecko’s tree. Let it crawl and climb on you, rather than holding onto the animal like you would a puppy. I like to let the babies hug my thumbs. I don’t know how the leachies feel about it, but it is adorable. Considering Treebeard can just sit there and hug my thumb for 30 minutes at a time, I think he likes it.
If your gecko starts whistling, chirping, or making other adorable sounds, it is probably time to give them some alone time. While we think these noises are cute, they are usually indications of discomfort or even fear. They also often precede a bite.
Yes. They bite. Even the babies. Especially the babies when they are afraid. I won’t say getting bit is pleasant. It’s also not nearly as bad as when my puppy affectionately chews on my hand. Adults often get “cage defensive” when they are approached by a human hand inside their home. They usually calm down after they are out of their habitats.
Remember: Each animal has its own personality and disposition. Some may never strike a human. Some may bite every time. Regular, but limited, handling can help shape how your leachie views humans.
What do I do if my leachie gets sick?
Leachianus geckos are very hardy, but they are not invulnerable (especially when it comes to temperature and humidity). If you notice your animal has stopped eating or pooping or is suddenly very lethargic, please take it to a veterinarian who specializes in reptiles. We are not veteriarians and our advice is not to be taken as that of one. (If you live in Corpus Christi, we recommend Dr. Tim Tristan at Everhart Animal Hospital.
